Hampi (15th century Vijayanagara) in winter

 "Sir, Hotel?" I saw a young man in jeans walking towards me.

"My name is Shiva. You want to go to Hampi, don't you, Sir? I can provide you Auto, Car at a very reasonable rate."
It was early morning and I was standing on the railway platform of Hospet. We reached only couple of minutes back and I was trying to understand how much the place changed in last 13 years, since I visited last time.  "How much would Auto cost me?", I asked. He said two hundred and we finally settled for Rs. 180 for a drop to Karnataka Tourism Hotel at Kamalapur, Hampi. Hampi, perhaps, is the most popular and most highlighted historical tourism place in Karnataka. But beside the historical ruins, one aspect that is rarely spoken about it is that it is also a famous pilgrimage spot for Hindus and also figures prominently in the must-visit list of spiritual seekers, particularly those travelling from Europe.

Vittala Temple, broken portion is visible

Closer look at the musical pillars (undecorated ones)
 in Vittala Temple

Terracotta on the Gopuram: Vittala temple

 Historically Hampi is the erstwhile capital of  14th-16th century Vijayanagara empire and is situated at the south bank of Tungabhadra. Archiologists tell us that Hampi existed as densely populated place for many centuries before  Harihara Raya I and Bukka Raya I founded Vijayanagar empire and adopted Hampi as its capital. Chronologically Vijayanagar empire comes after Hoysala dynasty who ruled almost entire Karnataka from 11th till the early 14th century. 
Multiple dynasties were associated Vijayanagara empire. Sangama dynasty that founded the empire ruled till late 15th century, Saluve dynasty started by Saluva Narasimha Deva Raya ruled for next twenty years till Tuluva dynasty came strong with Tuluva Narasa Nayaka. Tuluva dyansty ruled for next 80 years and Vijayanagara empire prospered most under Krishnadevaraya. It is said that Vijayanagara emire reached its peak during this time. Many of the glorious monuments in present Hampi ruins including the most spectacular Vittala temple were built during the rule of Krishnadevaraya. After Krishnadevaraya, it took just another thirty years before the empire crashed to its ruins. The sudden capture and killing of Aliya Rama Raya in 1565 at the Battle of Talikota, against an alliance of the Deccan sultanates, after a seemingly easy victory for the Vijayanagara armies, created havoc and confusion in the Vijayanagara ranks, which were then completely routed. The Sultanates' army later plundered Hampi and reduced it to the ruinous state in which it remains at present; it was never re-occupied [source]
The famous Ruins

Stone Chariot in front of Vittala Temple

 The first spot that people head towards is the famous Vittala Temple, built in dravidian vimana style where alongwith coarse-grains granite, bricks and terracota are also used. Different granite materials were used to build the musical pillars each of which used to resonate to different note of musical octave when the hall was commissioned. Many of them are broken [the main sanctum is already in dilapidated condition] since I came here last time and surviving pillars, quite justifiably, are not allowed to be touched by the visitors. Terracotta are used to create smooth-surfaced figurines and ornamental design on the top of the Gopurams, lot of which are already broken. The stone pillars in the temple are carved separately and fixed in place later. Each of them is richly engraved following both the Chola and Hoysala tradition. The iconic stone chariot in front of the main temple, if one carefully observes, did not have the elephants originally. Perhaps after the original horses and staircase got broken, very likely during army invasion, elephants were brought from somewhere and placed there. It still looks regal in front of the Vittala temple.This chariot is adopted as the symbol of Karnataka Tourism.

Lotus Mahal

Krishna Temple near King's Court

 While the stone chariot, Musical pillars and gorgeous stone engraving of Vittala temple are much-spoken-about [Govt of Karnataka even has a special arrangement where the special night lighting is turned on for eclectic audience and one must admit that the temple and entire area look almost surreal under the night light. The lights are turned on during Govt-sponsored Hampi Utsav or when the Karnataka Golden Chariot train reaches Hampi], Krishna Temple and Lotus Mahal also demand your attention for their exquisiteness of craftsmanship, ingenious mix of various architecture styles and smart engineering. All these monuments were painted beautifully with natural colours, some of them are still visible on the stone chariot or at the ceiling of the temples and Lotus Mahal.
Virupaksha temple in the Hampi Bazar is not far from the ruins but is not considered part of the ruins for the deity [Lord Shiva] is still worshipped today and is a prime spot on the pilgrimage route for the Hindu devotees. In fact this temple dates back to mid-7th century AD, many centuries before Vijayanagara empire came into being and is believed to  be functioning uninterruptedly ever since its inception.That makes this one of the oldest functioning temples in India. It is this temple and few others that have given the spiritual credence to Hampi.
But more than the ruins there is certain magic about Hampi even today that makes you feel relaxed and joyful as soon as you reach Hampi, be it Kamalapur where Karnataka Tourism Hotel is located or the long empty stretches of winding roads that lap you around like you are the last living being on earth or the huge uneven expanse strewn with rocks and boulders that almost give you a feeling of living in a prehistoric age or the river Tungabhadra flowing serenely through these open and wide rocky terrain, unmindful and unperturbed of all the human activities surrounding it.  Almost all areas have certain local legend related to some act in the Ramayana giving the extra edge of sacredness to this place. All these slowly build up a feeling that you are and you have been, even before you existed, part of this whole space that is undivided from the infinite since the creation of the magical Universe.

Tungabhadra and Anjandri Hill

While geologically this area is said to have existed long before thee great Himalaya came into being, it is the local stories, connecting mythological characters and Gods in Ramayana and Purana, that have lent solidity to the overwhelming sense of eternity attached to this place.

pilgrim climbing the anjandri hill

I was climbing the stairs of Anjanadri hill, while my mind was weaving those thoughts. Beside the hoardes of monkeys jumping all around, we had a group of pilgrims cheering all of us in Bhojpuri Hindi. Their continuous chant of Hanuman chalisa, it appeared, also caught the imagination of the fellow young Russian travellers.  "Jai Baj-rang-wa-li", one of them greeted us in broken accent. Some of the girls even wore red bindi on their forehead. Religiosity, as it appears, is an innate human nature.

Pampa Sarovar

Northern bank of Tungabhadra
 Anegundi, at the northern bank of river Tungabhadra, is at a distance of 5 km from the historical site of Hampi. It is locally believed to be the ancient monkey kingdom of KISHKINDHA described in  Ramayana. Anjanadri hill, the birth place of Lord Hanuman, and the mountain Rishimuka are the other places near Anegundi associated with Ramayana. It takes around 500 steps to reach the temple of Anjana devi, the mother of Lord Hanuman, at the top of Anjaneya Parvat, which is probably the highest hillock in the vicinity. Hordes of devotees from UP and Bihar throng this temple everyday for whom there is no bigger truth than the faith that their beloved immortal God Lord Hanuman was born on this hill. Ruins of Hampi are insignificant artefacts of history for most of them which can be corroborated by the fact that most of them hardly visit the ruins of Hampi. Not surprisingly the priests in this temple are from North India and entire sermon is made in Hindi instead of Kannada. Warm welcome from the priests and unrestricted access to the temple complex is another aspect that nobody fails to notice.

Devotees getting down at Pampa Sarovar

Pampa Sarovara and Laxmi Temple at the bank of it are another hotspot for Hindu devotees. Local mythology tells you that Pampa Sarovara is the place where Hanuman rested on his way to Himalayas. It is one among the five holy Sarovars installed by Brahma where Shiva and Parvati are worshipped, as per the local legends. The others being Manasarovar (In Tibet), Bindu Sarovar and Narayan Sarovar in Gujarat and Pushkar Sarovar in Rajasthan. Pampa devi is none other than Goddess Parvati, the consort of Lord Shiva, asserts the local version of mythology.
 The story goes like this: Pampa, born here, wanted to marry Lord Shiva, who was deep in meditation on the Hemakuta hill, which is right opposite the Virupaksha temple. She realized that meditation was the only way she could win him, and proceeded to do so, on the banks of a lake, on the other side of the river, where the present Pampa Sarovara is located. Finally, Shiva became aware of her and being satisfied with her devotion he agreed to marry her. The location where they were married is where the Virupaksha temple stands today. Even today, villagers from the surrounding areas prefer to marry within the temple premises, considering it an auspicious beginning to their married life.
It is believed that the name Hampi is local dialect translation [Apabharmsa] from Pampa. If you are mesmerised by this story, there are more waiting for you. There is Chintamani temple complex- cave where Rama met Sugreeva and Hanuman for the first time and the place from where he shot and killed Vali. Locals even identify the place where legendary fight between Sugrib and Bali in Ramayana happened before Bali was assasinated by Ram.
Then there is Sabari cave, where Sabari waited till Ram came to bless her. As per Ramayana, princess Sabari was cursed to a stone by an angry saint. Later the saint told her that only Lord Rama can lift the veil of curse and told her to wait till he comes there and touches her. Sabari got free from the curse only when Rama visited her.

But not all are myth. Anegundi played a major role in Bhakti movement particularly to the school of Madhvacharya during 14th century. Nava Brindavana (Nine Brindavana), situated on a small island on the Tungabhadra still stands as a proof to that statement. Navabrindavanam has the Samadhis (tombs) of nine saints, followers of Madhvacharya, and predecessors of Sri Raghavendra.
Myths, histories and vast, ancient landscape of Hampi fill every moment of your existence so much so that even after three days of stay we felt sad to leave this place.
Reaching and Staying there

ancient Rock-strewn landscape of Hampi

Nearest Ralhead is Hospet. Nearest Bus station also is Hospet. Even for those who like to drive to Hampi, Hospet is the highway junction. Hospet is connected to National road network through NH13. From Hospet, Hampi is around 15 kms and while there are many hotels in Hospet, the place that I would recommend is Karnataka Tourism Hotel in Hampi. Though many things cane be improved, the  hospitality still is hearwarming. I visited this place after almost 10 years and haven't felt any love lost! The large sprawling garden and open restaurant are few of the luxuries that very few can match in the entire area. For the backpackers, particularly Europeans, there are quite a few budget-places in Anegundi where they serve the European breakfast too.
In brief

Sunset at Hampi

It is undeniable that Hampi enjoys more than fair share of attention of tourists coming to Karnataka but it is also true that Hampi is one of the rarest tourist spots in India to have such a mix of historical,  mythological and spiritual heritage to offer to its visitors.
More photos