Hampi (15th century Vijayanagara) in winter

 "Sir, Hotel?" I saw a young man in jeans walking towards me.

"My name is Shiva. You want to go to Hampi, don't you, Sir? I can provide you Auto, Car at a very reasonable rate."
It was early morning and I was standing on the railway platform of Hospet. We reached only couple of minutes back and I was trying to understand how much the place changed in last 13 years, since I visited last time.  "How much would Auto cost me?", I asked. He said two hundred and we finally settled for Rs. 180 for a drop to Karnataka Tourism Hotel at Kamalapur, Hampi. Hampi, perhaps, is the most popular and most highlighted historical tourism place in Karnataka. But beside the historical ruins, one aspect that is rarely spoken about it is that it is also a famous pilgrimage spot for Hindus and also figures prominently in the must-visit list of spiritual seekers, particularly those travelling from Europe.

Vittala Temple, broken portion is visible

Closer look at the musical pillars (undecorated ones)
 in Vittala Temple

Terracotta on the Gopuram: Vittala temple

 Historically Hampi is the erstwhile capital of  14th-16th century Vijayanagara empire and is situated at the south bank of Tungabhadra. Archiologists tell us that Hampi existed as densely populated place for many centuries before  Harihara Raya I and Bukka Raya I founded Vijayanagar empire and adopted Hampi as its capital. Chronologically Vijayanagar empire comes after Hoysala dynasty who ruled almost entire Karnataka from 11th till the early 14th century. 
Multiple dynasties were associated Vijayanagara empire. Sangama dynasty that founded the empire ruled till late 15th century, Saluve dynasty started by Saluva Narasimha Deva Raya ruled for next twenty years till Tuluva dynasty came strong with Tuluva Narasa Nayaka. Tuluva dyansty ruled for next 80 years and Vijayanagara empire prospered most under Krishnadevaraya. It is said that Vijayanagara emire reached its peak during this time. Many of the glorious monuments in present Hampi ruins including the most spectacular Vittala temple were built during the rule of Krishnadevaraya. After Krishnadevaraya, it took just another thirty years before the empire crashed to its ruins. The sudden capture and killing of Aliya Rama Raya in 1565 at the Battle of Talikota, against an alliance of the Deccan sultanates, after a seemingly easy victory for the Vijayanagara armies, created havoc and confusion in the Vijayanagara ranks, which were then completely routed. The Sultanates' army later plundered Hampi and reduced it to the ruinous state in which it remains at present; it was never re-occupied [source]
The famous Ruins

Stone Chariot in front of Vittala Temple

 The first spot that people head towards is the famous Vittala Temple, built in dravidian vimana style where alongwith coarse-grains granite, bricks and terracota are also used. Different granite materials were used to build the musical pillars each of which used to resonate to different note of musical octave when the hall was commissioned. Many of them are broken [the main sanctum is already in dilapidated condition] since I came here last time and surviving pillars, quite justifiably, are not allowed to be touched by the visitors. Terracotta are used to create smooth-surfaced figurines and ornamental design on the top of the Gopurams, lot of which are already broken. The stone pillars in the temple are carved separately and fixed in place later. Each of them is richly engraved following both the Chola and Hoysala tradition. The iconic stone chariot in front of the main temple, if one carefully observes, did not have the elephants originally. Perhaps after the original horses and staircase got broken, very likely during army invasion, elephants were brought from somewhere and placed there. It still looks regal in front of the Vittala temple.This chariot is adopted as the symbol of Karnataka Tourism.

Lotus Mahal

Krishna Temple near King's Court

 While the stone chariot, Musical pillars and gorgeous stone engraving of Vittala temple are much-spoken-about [Govt of Karnataka even has a special arrangement where the special night lighting is turned on for eclectic audience and one must admit that the temple and entire area look almost surreal under the night light. The lights are turned on during Govt-sponsored Hampi Utsav or when the Karnataka Golden Chariot train reaches Hampi], Krishna Temple and Lotus Mahal also demand your attention for their exquisiteness of craftsmanship, ingenious mix of various architecture styles and smart engineering. All these monuments were painted beautifully with natural colours, some of them are still visible on the stone chariot or at the ceiling of the temples and Lotus Mahal.
Virupaksha temple in the Hampi Bazar is not far from the ruins but is not considered part of the ruins for the deity [Lord Shiva] is still worshipped today and is a prime spot on the pilgrimage route for the Hindu devotees. In fact this temple dates back to mid-7th century AD, many centuries before Vijayanagara empire came into being and is believed to  be functioning uninterruptedly ever since its inception.That makes this one of the oldest functioning temples in India. It is this temple and few others that have given the spiritual credence to Hampi.
But more than the ruins there is certain magic about Hampi even today that makes you feel relaxed and joyful as soon as you reach Hampi, be it Kamalapur where Karnataka Tourism Hotel is located or the long empty stretches of winding roads that lap you around like you are the last living being on earth or the huge uneven expanse strewn with rocks and boulders that almost give you a feeling of living in a prehistoric age or the river Tungabhadra flowing serenely through these open and wide rocky terrain, unmindful and unperturbed of all the human activities surrounding it.  Almost all areas have certain local legend related to some act in the Ramayana giving the extra edge of sacredness to this place. All these slowly build up a feeling that you are and you have been, even before you existed, part of this whole space that is undivided from the infinite since the creation of the magical Universe.

Tungabhadra and Anjandri Hill

While geologically this area is said to have existed long before thee great Himalaya came into being, it is the local stories, connecting mythological characters and Gods in Ramayana and Purana, that have lent solidity to the overwhelming sense of eternity attached to this place.

pilgrim climbing the anjandri hill

I was climbing the stairs of Anjanadri hill, while my mind was weaving those thoughts. Beside the hoardes of monkeys jumping all around, we had a group of pilgrims cheering all of us in Bhojpuri Hindi. Their continuous chant of Hanuman chalisa, it appeared, also caught the imagination of the fellow young Russian travellers.  "Jai Baj-rang-wa-li", one of them greeted us in broken accent. Some of the girls even wore red bindi on their forehead. Religiosity, as it appears, is an innate human nature.

Pampa Sarovar

Northern bank of Tungabhadra
 Anegundi, at the northern bank of river Tungabhadra, is at a distance of 5 km from the historical site of Hampi. It is locally believed to be the ancient monkey kingdom of KISHKINDHA described in  Ramayana. Anjanadri hill, the birth place of Lord Hanuman, and the mountain Rishimuka are the other places near Anegundi associated with Ramayana. It takes around 500 steps to reach the temple of Anjana devi, the mother of Lord Hanuman, at the top of Anjaneya Parvat, which is probably the highest hillock in the vicinity. Hordes of devotees from UP and Bihar throng this temple everyday for whom there is no bigger truth than the faith that their beloved immortal God Lord Hanuman was born on this hill. Ruins of Hampi are insignificant artefacts of history for most of them which can be corroborated by the fact that most of them hardly visit the ruins of Hampi. Not surprisingly the priests in this temple are from North India and entire sermon is made in Hindi instead of Kannada. Warm welcome from the priests and unrestricted access to the temple complex is another aspect that nobody fails to notice.

Devotees getting down at Pampa Sarovar

Pampa Sarovara and Laxmi Temple at the bank of it are another hotspot for Hindu devotees. Local mythology tells you that Pampa Sarovara is the place where Hanuman rested on his way to Himalayas. It is one among the five holy Sarovars installed by Brahma where Shiva and Parvati are worshipped, as per the local legends. The others being Manasarovar (In Tibet), Bindu Sarovar and Narayan Sarovar in Gujarat and Pushkar Sarovar in Rajasthan. Pampa devi is none other than Goddess Parvati, the consort of Lord Shiva, asserts the local version of mythology.
 The story goes like this: Pampa, born here, wanted to marry Lord Shiva, who was deep in meditation on the Hemakuta hill, which is right opposite the Virupaksha temple. She realized that meditation was the only way she could win him, and proceeded to do so, on the banks of a lake, on the other side of the river, where the present Pampa Sarovara is located. Finally, Shiva became aware of her and being satisfied with her devotion he agreed to marry her. The location where they were married is where the Virupaksha temple stands today. Even today, villagers from the surrounding areas prefer to marry within the temple premises, considering it an auspicious beginning to their married life.
It is believed that the name Hampi is local dialect translation [Apabharmsa] from Pampa. If you are mesmerised by this story, there are more waiting for you. There is Chintamani temple complex- cave where Rama met Sugreeva and Hanuman for the first time and the place from where he shot and killed Vali. Locals even identify the place where legendary fight between Sugrib and Bali in Ramayana happened before Bali was assasinated by Ram.
Then there is Sabari cave, where Sabari waited till Ram came to bless her. As per Ramayana, princess Sabari was cursed to a stone by an angry saint. Later the saint told her that only Lord Rama can lift the veil of curse and told her to wait till he comes there and touches her. Sabari got free from the curse only when Rama visited her.

But not all are myth. Anegundi played a major role in Bhakti movement particularly to the school of Madhvacharya during 14th century. Nava Brindavana (Nine Brindavana), situated on a small island on the Tungabhadra still stands as a proof to that statement. Navabrindavanam has the Samadhis (tombs) of nine saints, followers of Madhvacharya, and predecessors of Sri Raghavendra.
Myths, histories and vast, ancient landscape of Hampi fill every moment of your existence so much so that even after three days of stay we felt sad to leave this place.
Reaching and Staying there

ancient Rock-strewn landscape of Hampi

Nearest Ralhead is Hospet. Nearest Bus station also is Hospet. Even for those who like to drive to Hampi, Hospet is the highway junction. Hospet is connected to National road network through NH13. From Hospet, Hampi is around 15 kms and while there are many hotels in Hospet, the place that I would recommend is Karnataka Tourism Hotel in Hampi. Though many things cane be improved, the  hospitality still is hearwarming. I visited this place after almost 10 years and haven't felt any love lost! The large sprawling garden and open restaurant are few of the luxuries that very few can match in the entire area. For the backpackers, particularly Europeans, there are quite a few budget-places in Anegundi where they serve the European breakfast too.
In brief

Sunset at Hampi

It is undeniable that Hampi enjoys more than fair share of attention of tourists coming to Karnataka but it is also true that Hampi is one of the rarest tourist spots in India to have such a mix of historical,  mythological and spiritual heritage to offer to its visitors.
More photos

Chalukya Heritage: Aihole and Pattadakal

Chalukya Geneology: those in green are
known to provide more patronage to
temple building

At around 135 km from Hospet [and 500 km from Bangalore], Badami is a small town in Bagalkot district of North Karnataka but it used to be the capital of the great Chalukya kingdom during the period C. 550-754 A. D. It is told that Aihole [old Aryapura] had the honour of being the capital of Chalukya dynasty before the capital moved to Badami. Pattadakal a small village at around 30 km from Badami and 10 km from Aihole used to be the place for coronation of Chalukyan Kings at that time. But today Aihole, Pattadakal and Badami are known more as the tourist spot, a place that boasts of great architecture heritages of ancient Chalukya empire, the empire that used to cover from the present western karnataka/goa coast to entire Kaveri/Narmada basin under its rule at its peak.
Historians largely credit Pulakesin I [literally means tiger-haired] to establish the Chalukya empire at around 550 AD a little after Gupta empire declined. Although historians differ about the origin of Chalukyas, the Chalukya period is considered to be the golden age of Karnataka history.
The most prominent among the Chalukyan Kings were Pulakeshin I and II and Vikramaditya II. They were attributed to most of the development and expansion that happened under this dynasty. They were also recognized to have hugely contributed to cultural development of the state. Hsüan-tsang who visited Harshavardhana in north also travelled to Badami during the rule of Pulakesin II. The Chalukya patronage not only contributed immensely to the development of Kannada as the language [there are quite a few inscriptions in Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal which are in Saskrit but written in old Kannada script showing the evolution of Kannada as a language] , it also helped maturing dravidian style of architecture. Both Aihole and Pattadakal show some of the glorious development of south Indian temple architectures. History attributes Kirtivarman I and Mangalesha for construction of Badami cave temples [covered in my last post] but it was Pulakesin II who oversaw the development of different temples in Aihole.

Aihole Temple complex

Present ASI heritage site of Aihole is a complex of 22 temples built at different times during Chalukyan period. Typical features unique to Badami Chalukyas architecture include mortarless assembly, an emphasis on length rather than width or height, flat roofs, richly carved ceilings, and, sculpturally, an emphasis on relatively few major figures, which tend to be isolated from each other rather than arranged in crowded groups. The aesthetic sensibility of sculpture from this period also seems to retain a certain classical quality whose impulse does not carry over into later periods of Indian art (Susan Huntington, 1985). Aihole served as the laboratory of rock craftsmanship. They mixed contemporary south-indian and north indian styles to bring up something unique. Usage of curved towers decorated with blind arches came from northern India. Plastered walls with panel inserts are a southern Indian style. Two temples in this complex are worth a little elaboration.

Durga Temple from Front

Lad Khan temple [photo] is one of the first of Chalukyan temples, some believe to be constructed as a sample in 450 A.D, perhaps for Lord Shiva. The mukha mantapa in front of the sanctum has a set of 12 carved pillars.There are also stone grids on the wall carrying floral designs. The windows are filled with lattice style which is a north Indian style.

Durga Temple at Aihole from the backside

Durga temple or fortress temple is the best known of the Aihole temples and is very photogenic. It is apsidal in plan, along the lines of a Buddhist chaitya, a high moulded adisthana and a tower - curvilinear shikhara. A pillared corridor runs around the temple, enveloping the shrine, the mukhamantapa and the sabhamantapa. All through the temple, there are beautiful carvings. The temple appears to be of the late 7th or early 8th century. ASI note suggests that the temple initially was designed for Sun-god and later converted to Durga temple.

Pattadakal

Pattadakal temple complex: seen both the Nagara style and
Vimana style temples

Pattadakal was another place where Chalukya empire patroned evolution of temple architecture. Historians believe that Pattadaakal helped maturing Vimana-style of temple architecture seen in all south india and also was used to build the Kailasnath temple in Ellora. The complex shows various temples built either in North Indian Nagara style [Kashi Vishwanath temple] or mix of north and dravidian style or fully evolved Dravidian Vimana style. Virupaksha temple built by Queen Lokamahadevi (Trilokyamahadevi) in around 745AD to commemorate  victory of Vikramaditya II over the Pallavas of Kanchi resembles the famous Kanchi temple of Pallava empire. The temple is richly decorated with stone engraving depicting stories of Ramayana and Mahabharata all around. The Shivalingam in the temple is still worshipped today. There is another temple identical to it but smaller than the original Virupaksha temple and ASI note says that it was built by the second queen of Vikramaditya II, who incidentally was sister of Queen Lokamahadevi.
More photos are available at Picasa album.

How to go there

Badami is the nearest railway station for Pattadakal. Badami (Station Code:BDM ) itself is on the less busy Solapur-Gadag route. This means, there are not many long distance trains connect Badami directly with other metro cities in the region. Hubli and Hospet are the major junctions nearby. Hubli is connected to Bangalore and has many trains running between Bangalore and Hubli.  This site provides a comprehensive list of alternative routes. But my personal suggestion would be that you club this with Hampi. That way you can stay in Hampi and take a tourist cab [pelnty available] from Hampi/Hospet for a day trip to Badami.  Since Aihole and Pattadakal are nearby, you can cover them in one day.

Reference

http://www.preservearticles.com/2011101715538/short-essay-on-the-chalukyas-of-badami.html
http://ratnagiri.nic.in/Gazetter/GOM/his_chalukyas.html

Ajanta to Mahabalipuram: in search of India's rock-cut architecture

Mahisasurmardini engraving in Cave 1

The security staff warned, "Ma'am, be careful with your purse, monkeys already snatched bags from three ladies today!" That also could be good news since monkeys would be busy in exploring the content of snatched bags and would allow other bags to stay where they are, I thought.
We were standing in front of Badami caves, an extraordinary piece of pre-medieval rock-cut architecture. The four cave ensemble was carved out of sandstone during 6th-7th century AD under the patronage of Chalukya dyansty. The first one is dedicated to Lord Shiva, the second and the third to Lord Vishnu and the topmost one is the only non-Hindu cave dedicated to Lord Mahavira. Richness of the sandstone carving at a gigantic scale in first three caves leaves one in search for words. The only comparison if at all, one can have is with Ellora and Ajanta, although Ajanta caves were cut much earlier. Beside the architectural marvels of these millenium-old man-made cave temples, what intrigued me is how the masonry skill, architectural knowledge and engineering know-how flourished and flowed across distant regions of India where most of the travel used to be long and arduous in the absence of a large-scale tranaport system.
This post is my own journey of appreciation of  some of the greatest heritages of India: the Ajanta and Ellora caves, Mahabalipuram or Mamallapuram and Badami cave.
Geographically Ajanta and Ellora caves are in Aurangabad, Maharashtra, Mahabalipuram is in Taminadu and very near to Chennai while Badami is in north Karnataka. One common thread between the four are that all of them are rock-cut architectures; some involve chiselling the full structure from single monolithic rock while other invove cutting the basalt or sandstone rock face to create the space for temple.
Historically Ajanta caves date back from 2nd century BCE till 5th century AD. Badami caves date back to 6th century AD and Mahabalipuram construction are considered to happen during 7th century AD. The Buddhist caves in Ellora are belived to be built during 5th-7th century AD, the Hindu caves were built between 6th and 8th century and the Jain caves were believed to be built between 8th and 9th century AD. It is quite appparent that if one excludes Ajanta, rest of the temple sites are almost contemporary.
Royal Patronage
Building such large structure out of stone requires huge man power and would not have been possible without royal patronage. It is intersting to note that in the long history of Indian Royal empires and kingdoms, there are only few dynasties that were found a mention who patronized stone-based architecture.

Ajanta Caves
It is believed that early Ajanta caves were built under patronage of  Satavahana dynasty [230 BCE - c. 220 CE], the later ones [during 5th century] were built during Vakataka rule. Historians believe most of the later caves were built  from 460 to 480 CE, during the reign of Emperor Harishena of the Vakataka dynasty.


Ellora Caves

Kailas temple at Ellora

Ellora Buddhist caves, Wiki claim to be built under patronage of Satvahana dynasty but the time does not appear to agree. In fact it could as well be that people abandoned Ajanta after fall of Harishena and came to Ellora and built the temples. Patronage of Hindu temples appear less uncertain with early temples understood to be constructed during the Kalachuri period and the most complex and rich ones including the famous Kailas temple to be commissioned by Rashtrakuta empire. Incidentally Kailas temple, the most intricately constructed Shiva temple is carved out of large monolithic rock top-down and was preceded by two similar looking but abandoned temples. It is considered one of its kind in the world for both the richness of the carving and engineering ingenuity. It appears to have taken 100 long years to complete this temple, as per the historians.Maintaining engineering consistency over hundred years when a single error can bring down the entire architecture is by itself a feat that hardly can be found any parallel for, anywhere.
Badami Caves

Entering Badami Caves

History is less uncertain about Badami caves which is recorded to be built by Kirthivarman (567-598 AD) and his brother Mangalesha I (598-610 AD), the sons of Pulakesi I,  the founder of Chalukya dynasty. It is worth noting that Pallavas and Chalukyas fought many wars and later, both got consumed by Rashtrakuta empire.


Mahabalipuram Rock Art

Shore Temple

One rock-cut temple in Mahabalipuram

Mamallapuram rock architectures that include shore temple, Five rathas, Arjun's penance and other isolated stone-works were sponsored by Pallava dynasty who ruled from Kanchipuram. All of them were carved out from monolithic rocks that were locally available. Some of the strcuture sunk under water at later times because of a Tsunami but most of the major artwork are still intact.
Art historian Percy Brown, traces the possible roots of the Pallava Mandapa to the similar rock-cut caves of Ajanta Caves and Ellora Caves. Referring to Narasimhavarman's victory in AD 642 over the Chalukyan king Pulakesin II. Brown says the Pallava king may have brought the sculptors and artisans back to Kanchi and Mamallapuram as 'spoils of war'.
 Connecting them together

Lomas Rishi cave
[http://www.mapability.com/travel/p2i/images/93-034-04.jpg]

Earliest evidence of Indian rock-cut craftmanship that survived the grind of time is barabar cave temple, built during Mauryan period, actually by Ashoka. One look at the Lomas Rishi entrance engraving reminds one of Ajanta Chaityas, only the latter is built in more exquisite and grander style. It is interesting to note that Barabar cave in Bihar was not a Buddhist shrine. "Being a sincere Buddhist the emperor Asoka was tolerant of the other religions in his vast realm . Proof of this are the remarkable caves he had cut on the stark and rocky Barabar Hills for the use of Ajivaka ascetics."[source]. Ajivaka school of Jainism was started by a Buddha-contemporary named Makkhali Gosala.

Front facade of one cave in Ajanta

The structure that entirely carved out of granite was supposed to resemble timbre structure that used to be predominatly used during that time for building temple. Probably this was the first time one Timbre artisan tried his hand on granite and with his overwhelming success, made the rock-engraving hugely popular for following generations. British library text says, " Along with the other cave-temples in the Barabar hills, the Lomas Rishi cave, provided a prototype for the larger Buddhist Chaitya halls that are found in Maharasthra such as Ajanta or Karli and were very influential to the tradition of South Asian rock-cut architecture."
  So, the artistry and skill got improved over generations, from early Ajanta caves to Ajanta caves of 4th century AD. After Ajanta caves were abandoned, the artisans moved to Ellora and Elephanta caves and then to Badami and at a later point to Mahabalipuram. Unfortunately ancient Indians are not known to maintain objective history, but if we had, we could find that there is connection with Aihole, Pattadakal and other rock architectures too.
It, however, appears that irrespective of which dyansty rules or which religion prevails, the craftmanship flowed between different places and rules in ancient period demonstrating respectful tolerance of religions and ethnicities and respect for craftsmen. Respect for multiculturalism was one of the most ancient hallmark of Indian ethos, which probably was lost sometime during mediaval period. That way ancient India was equally modern in perspective as we are today, perhaps a little more?